Eyelet Ruffle

Saturday’s Stash: Eyelet Ruffle

Eyelet (pronounced aye-lett) is a lightweight cotton or cotton blend that’s decorated with shaped holes bound with thread, much like buttonholes or eyelets (hence the name). Sometimes they’re round holes with a simple floral motif around them, and other times they’re part of a complex embroidery design. In nicer eyelet, the edges are scalloped.

Eyelet can be bought as a flat lace, a pre-gathered ruffle, or as wide fabric. Eyelet lace is often used to decorate historic undergarments, such as a ruffle around the hem of a petticoat. Eyelet fabric can be used to make summer blouses or skirts, and is often used for children’s or infant’s clothing. Today, though, we’re looking specifically at a pre-gathered eyelet ruffle.

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18th Century Undergarments: Pt I

Wednesday’s Projects

18th Century Undergarments—Part I

Some time ago, I realized that I needed a complete set of undergarments to wear under an 18th century dress. I did the research, found some accurate-looking patterns, and got busy. The ensemble would consist of a shift, pair of stays, set of pocket hoops, petticoat, neckerchief, and cap. First, let’s look at the shift and stays.

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1881 Winter Dresses

Friday’s Fashion Plate
1881 Winter Dresses

Here are two winter “in-door” dresses from Peterson’s Magazine, February 1881. (As always, click on pictures to see larger images.)

Fashion Plate

Winter In-Door Dresses ~ Peterson's Magazine, 1881

1881 fell at the end of the Natural Form period, just before the bustle made a spectacular comeback. You can see no evidence of it in these narrow dresses, but the bustle’s return was imminent.

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Wrist Pincushion

I’ve just added a tutorial for a wrist pincushion. It’s small and very useful for keeping your pins at hand (no pun intended!) while you sew. Find it under “Tutorials” or just click here.

Pincushion

Wrist Pincushion

Enjoy!

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All About Me: My Sewing Room

All About Me: My Sewing Room

Note: This blog post was written in 2011. It’s now 2020 and my sewing workspace has changed drastically. Same room, but better furniture, a great layout, and improved organization.

 

What is my workspace like? (2011)
Some sewers are meticulously organized. They have countless little boxes, each labeled with its contents: ribbon, thread, lace, buttons, trim, elastic, patterns, etc. Others are chaotically disorganized. They claim they can’t channel their creativity unless surrounded by their fabrics and trims and recent projects. I fall somewhere in between.*

(* Note to myself from 2020: Sorry to break this to you, sweetie, but you are insanely organized. Boxes and bins for everything.)

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The Corset & the Crinoline

Thursday’s Book Review

The Corset & the Crinoline: An Illustrated History
by W. B. Lord

Book Cover

Dover Publications, © 1868

Rating
4 = Satisfactory

Description
An unabridged reprint of The Corset and the Crinoline: A Book of Modes and Costumes from Remote Periods to the Present Time, originally published in 1868.

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Historically Inspired Shoes

Tuesday’s Tips & Tricks
Historically Inspired Shoes

All costumers know the difficulty involved in finding shoes that are historically accurate. Genuine antique shoes are expensive, hard to find, hard to fit, and may not be in good enough condition to actually wear. Then there’s the quandary of should you wear a pair of antique shoes, or instead preserve them for future generations?

You can find reproduction shoes that are accurate, but they certainly are not cheap. Prices typically start around $80 for a good pair, and can reach upwards of $200 or more. They are especially hard to find in wide widths, which makes it difficult for many to find shoes that fit.

Shoes

Closeup of “The Declaration of Love” by Jean Francois de Troy, 1731

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18th Century Caraco

Sunday’s Someday
18th Century Brown Caraco

When I found this fabric, I knew it would be perfect for a dress from the late 1700s. From what I’ve seen of antique textiles, the pattern is very authentic—and I love the colors.

Fabric

Teal & Brown Print Cotton

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1860 Masquerade Gowns

Friday’s Fashion Plate
1860 Masquerade Gowns

This is a set of three masquerade or “fancy dress” ensembles from an 1860 French fashion plate. Masquerade fashion plates intrigue me, because they show the Victorian version of historic costuming. Interestingly, no matter what era is represented, you can always see evidence of “modern” styling, such as the hoop skirts beneath a medieval gown.

Fashion Plate

Le Conseiller Des Dames & Des Demoiselles, 1860

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Victorian Lingerie For Dolls

Sunday’s Someday Project
Miniature Victorian Lingerie

For some time I have wanted to make doll-sized replicas of historic garments, starting with the undergarments. I once made a pair of bloomers and a corset for my 16” Rose from Titanic doll, but they weren’t historically accurate and I wasn’t satisfied. So, my goal here is to make a complete set of authentic 1870s undergarments.

First we’d have the combination. This is a one-piece garment that combines drawers and chemise into a sort of jumpsuit (sometimes known as a Union suit). The drawers would be split, as they are in reality (meaning, an open crotch for ease of using the bathroom), and the top would be semi-fitted. I would base them off the Victorian combination pattern made by Truly Victorian.

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