Sunday’s Someday Project: Mint Suede Dress Coat
Because of my wide back and sloped shoulders, I have a very hard time finding coats and jackets that fit. Most of them are too narrow across the back, and so they bind in the upper arms. A couple of years ago, I found a pale mint green faux suede on clearance at Jo~Ann’s. I thought it would make a lovely dress coat—a luxury garment that I’ve never owned, because of the impossibility of finding one that didn’t feel like a straitjacket.
I set the fabric aside for a long time, while I searched for a suitable lining material. I didn’t want to settle for acetate or polyester “China silk”, and I couldn’t afford rayon Ambiance Bemberg. Besides, I wanted something special, something pretty and sophisticated, something unexpected. So I kept my eye on the printed charmeuse at Fabric.com, and one day I found one that I liked on sale. It’s an abstract print with shades of mint, brown, and cream. I ordered a swatch, and it matched my suede perfectly.
Printed Charmeuse (left) and Mint Green Faux Suede (right)
Now all I needed was the interlining—something to keep me warm and cozy in the winter. I considered flannel, until I found something better: a fleece interlining specifically made for lining coats. I ordered four yards and when it arrived, I found it wasn’t quite what I’d expected. It resembles extra thick felt, more than anything. But so long as it doesn’t make the coat too cumbersome, I suppose it doesn’t matter.
Fleece Interlining
I’m still considering whether I need fusible hair canvas, or if I can get away with a heavyweight sew-in interfacing. I don’t want the coat to be too stiff and unwieldy, after all, but I recognize that it will need some support in the shoulders and facings. I’ve never made anything tailored before, so this will be a new experience for me.
I’ve chosen Simplicity (Project Runway) 2812 for the pattern. It’s a cute coat, with an empire waist and a variety of fashionable collars. I’ll probably use the full-length view with the gathered collar.
Fashion Sketch ~ Dress Coat
Winter will be here before we know it, so I’m debating whether to go ahead and make the coat. Either way, it’s going to require a lot of trial and error, probably at least two mockups to get the fit right. I’d hate to finally get it done, just in time for warmer weather!
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What do you think—should I start the coat now or wait until next year? Should I use the expensive hair canvas or just use heavyweight interfacing?
